Sometimes what you're eating could scarcely be considered a food...
There's an
article by Michael Pollan in the New York Times magazine that makes for very worthwhile reading. It's 10 pages long and I had a minor bone to pick here and there, but overall I think that anyone who reads it will come away better informed about food and nutrition in modern society and perhaps more importantly, with a greater propensity to think critically about what they put in their mouths.
Just a few points:
In laying the responsibility for the reductionist viewpoint, i.e. identifying 'bad' nutrients in isolation as the culprit for various ill effects, at the feet of nutritionists and scientists very early in the article, Pollan fails to note until page 10 of the article that this approach has become so widespread because of its commercial convenience. Food manufacturers seize upon such information and use it to persuade the consumer that product X (“high fibre! no trans fats!”) can cure what ails them.
Nutritionism, which arose to help us better deal with the problems of the Western diet, has largely been co-opted by it, used by the industry to sell more food and to undermine the authority of traditional ways of eating.
Refining grains: to the best of my knowledge, refining grains extends their shelf life not because 'it makes them less nutritious to pests' but because the fats contained in the germ of the grains contain a high proportion of polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fatty acids, meaning they are more susceptible to oxidation (rancidity, 'going off'). A little basic research would have been appropriate here.
Freezing food destroys the fibre? First I've heard of that... it sounds very unlikely, and besides- which type of fibre? I'll have to look into it, but be sceptical.
There are many topics covered within the article that are worth noting- the influence of industry upon the production of dietary guidelines by government applies as much Australia as it does in the US. The influence of the alcoholic beverage industry on the government's guidelines for
alcohol consumption by pregnant women is a rather astounding example here in Australia. Another is
Tony Abbott living in the underpants of the Australian Food and Grocery Council and defending them against calls to ban junk food advertising to children.
Obviously I can't post the whole 10 pages (go
here for the entire article after the NYTimes' stingy 7 day access has expired), but the list of 9 points of advice at the end are worth reading even for those who can't be arsed reading the whole article:
1. Eat food. Though in our current state of confusion, this is much easier said than done. So try this: Don’t eat anything your great-great-grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food. (Sorry, but at this point Moms are as confused as the rest of us, which is why we have to go back a couple of generations, to a time before the advent of modern food products.) There are a great many foodlike items in the supermarket your ancestors wouldn’t recognize as food (Go-Gurt? Breakfast-cereal bars? Nondairy creamer?); stay away from these. [being picky I suppose you could say that my great-great-grandparents probably wouldn't have recognised garlic or olive oil as foods, but I get the point- S]
2. Avoid even those food products that come bearing health claims. They’re apt to be heavily processed, and the claims are often dubious at best. Don’t forget that margarine, one of the first industrial foods to claim that it was more healthful than the traditional food it replaced, turned out to give people heart attacks. When Kellogg’s can boast about its Healthy Heart Strawberry Vanilla cereal bars, health claims have become hopelessly compromised. (The American Heart Association charges food makers for their endorsement.) Don’t take the silence of the yams as a sign that they have nothing valuable to say about health.
3. Especially avoid food products containing ingredients that are a) unfamiliar, b) unpronounceable c) more than five in number — or that contain high-fructose corn syrup.None of these characteristics are necessarily harmful in and of themselves, but all of them are reliable markers for foods that have been highly processed.
4. Get out of the supermarket whenever possible. You won’t find any high-fructose corn syrup at the farmer’s market; you also won’t find food harvested long ago and far away. What you will find are fresh whole foods picked at the peak of nutritional quality. Precisely the kind of food your great-great-grandmother would have recognized as food.
5. Pay more, eat less. The American food system has for a century devoted its energies and policies to increasing quantity and reducing price, not to improving quality. There’s no escaping the fact that better food — measured by taste or nutritional quality (which often correspond) — costs more, because it has been grown or raised less intensively and with more care. Not everyone can afford to eat well in America, which is shameful, but most of us can: Americans spend, on average, less than 10 percent of their income on food, down from 24 percent in 1947, and less than the citizens of any other nation. And those of us who can afford to eat well should. Paying more for food well grown in good soils — whether certified organic or not — will contribute not only to your health (by reducing exposure to pesticides) but also to the health of others who might not themselves be able to afford that sort of food: the people who grow it and the people who live downstream, and downwind, of the farms where it is grown.
“Eat less” is the most unwelcome advice of all, but in fact the scientific case for eating a lot less than we currently do is compelling. “Calorie restriction” has repeatedly been shown to slow aging in animals, and many researchers (including Walter Willett, the Harvard epidemiologist) believe it offers the single strongest link between diet and cancer prevention. Food abundance is a problem, but culture has helped here, too, by promoting the idea of moderation. Once one of the longest-lived people on earth, the Okinawans practiced a principle they called “Hara Hachi Bu”: eat until you are 80 percent full. To make the “eat less” message a bit more palatable, consider that quality may have a bearing on quantity: I don’t know about you, but the better the quality of the food I eat, the less of it I need to feel satisfied. All tomatoes are not created equal. [ eating less is a tough one... I'd struggle to follow this advice for more than 24 hours. 'Eating better' is much easier to do, for me at least. Gam may disagree!. ]
6. Eat mostly plants, especially leaves. Scientists may disagree on what’s so good about plants — the antioxidants? Fiber? Omega-3s? — but they do agree that they’re probably really good for you and certainly can’t hurt. Also, by eating a plant-based diet, you’ll be consuming far fewer calories, since plant foods (except seeds) are typically less “energy dense” than the other things you might eat. Vegetarians are healthier than carnivores, but near vegetarians (“flexitarians”) are as healthy as vegetarians. Thomas Jefferson was on to something when he advised treating meat more as a flavoring than a food.
7. Eat more like the French. Or the Japanese. Or the Italians. Or the Greeks. Confounding factors aside, people who eat according to the rules of a traditional food culture are generally healthier than we are. Any traditional diet will do: if it weren’t a healthy diet, the people who follow it wouldn’t still be around. True, food cultures are embedded in societies and economies and ecologies, and some of them travel better than others: Inuit not so well as Italian. In borrowing from a food culture, pay attention to how a culture eats, as well as to what it eats. In the case of the French paradox, it may not be the dietary nutrients that keep the French healthy (lots of saturated fat and alcohol?!) so much as the dietary habits: small portions, no seconds or snacking, communal meals — and the serious pleasure taken in eating. (Worrying about diet can’t possibly be good for you.) Let culture be your guide, not science.
8. Cook. And if you can, plant a garden. To take part in the intricate and endlessly interesting processes of providing for our sustenance is the surest way to escape the culture of fast food and the values implicit in it: that food should be cheap and easy; that food is fuel and not communion. The culture of the kitchen, as embodied in those enduring traditions we call cuisines, contains more wisdom about diet and health than you are apt to find in any nutrition journal or journalism. Plus, the food you grow yourself contributes to your health long before you sit down to eat it. So you might want to think about putting down this article now and picking up a spatula or hoe. [Very good advice- this applies particularly to the 'unhealthy' stuff you might want to eat... if you have to put all the ingredients together and cook it yourself you're likely to eat it less often than if all you have to do is open the cupboard and pull out a packet. Besides, nothing beats fresh-baked biscuits, cakes, puddings etc. Of course the 'plant a garden' advice doesn't apply so much to those foods, but you'll never find veges as good as the ones you pick fresh from the garden... or pot on the balcony!]
9. Eat like an omnivore. Try to add new species, not just new foods, to your diet. The greater the diversity of species you eat, the more likely you are to cover all your nutritional bases. That of course is an argument from nutritionism, but there is a better one, one that takes a broader view of “health.” Biodiversity in the diet means less monoculture in the fields. What does that have to do with your health? Everything. The vast monocultures that now feed us require tremendous amounts of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to keep from collapsing. Diversifying those fields will mean fewer chemicals, healthier soils, healthier plants and animals and, in turn, healthier people. It’s all connected, which is another way of saying that your health isn’t bordered by your body and that what’s good for the soil is probably good for you, too.